Plinker / .22lr : a cheap and fun way to do some training for rifle shooting, but collecting the small brass is a pain in the ass, especially on outdoor ranges, especially on winter when there is snow and all.
It is not stupid if it works!
Plinker / .22lr : a cheap and fun way to do some training for rifle shooting, but collecting the small brass is a pain in the ass, especially on outdoor ranges, especially on winter when there is snow and all.
It is not stupid if it works!
The manufacturer seen some of the pictures and they insisted that the non-milspec hammer/trigger was the issue causing light strikes.
If I recall correctly, the original hammer had similar light striking issues and I am pretty confident that the issue is caused by the recoil spring guide that makes contact with the hammer, so I checked the original hammer:
My previous assumption for failure-to-fire was, that the bolt didn’t close properly (possibly due to the overly tight extractor) and thus some of the power from the hammer was used to close the bolt and then there was not enough force to ignite the primer. Now it seems that the power from the hammer is lost somewhere else..
I previously noticed some wear on the recoil spring guide / bolt weight, but didn’t find what would have caused it or if it was there to start with, so I took a magic marker and painted it blue. Now it had new markings and some of them even pretty deep.
I finally received the promised new firing pin from the manufacturer.
The new enhanced and shiny firing pin is slightly longer from the rear end Continue reading NEA15-22 Part IV -here we go again
The plot thickens..
I had cleaned the rifle, done a little polishing and then of to range for test firing.
First 50 rnds (2 mags) seemed to be discharged without any problems, but then the problems started. Around 20% of the rounds failed to ignite on first try, but most ignited on second try, after being put back to magazine and re-cycled into the gun.
I collected some examples of fired casings and also some non-ignited rounds to check the firing pin markings. Then I also noticed that the first 50 rounds were not so successful and had included some bulged and deformed casings.
Why not? That’s the answer to your obvious question: Why?
Since I got my SLB holster I knew that I would not need another holster with my CZ-75 SP-01 Shadow. Only problem with the holster is that it is not suitable for SRA. SRA rules state that the hoster must cover at least front sight, ejection port and trigger. At it’s vanilla state SLB holster covers only trigger, so something had to be done.
Like my SLB holster accessory for CZ-75 Airsoft gun my only “rules” for this next project was that it must not require any modifications to the holster and I must be able to attach and detach the addition easily without tools.
Without further talk, let me introduce the early prototype of SLB SRA Legalizer!
The SRA Legalizer is made from acrylic, polyethylene plastic, M3 screws, M4 threaded bar, plastic glue and ****load of curse words.
Contrary what the topic says this is not fully DIY. The steel adapter is made by fellow hobbyist called ferri. And the carbon fibre tube is from Ebay. It took some filing and Dremel’ing to make the follower pass the steel adapter smoothly.
This came to replace my current barrel-length aluminium magazine. This weights approximately 25 g less than the aluminium magazine and total weight without spring is around 150 g. I seem to have forgotten the magazine support from the picture. And I don’t have suitable spring in hand so no clue how many cartridges will it hold.
Steel, carbon fiber, plastic end cap and some 2-component glue to hold it all together. Total costs 30 €.
After I purchased my SLB holster I immediately throw away my crappy kydex holster I had for my KJW KP-09 CZ-75 Action Air pistol. (KJW stands for Kuan-Ju-Works.)
Only problem is that in SLB quick draw holster the pistol is held in place from the front picatinny rail (present CZ-75 SP-01 Shadow) which obviously my Action Air pistol did not have.
One viable solution would have been to purchase older style SLB front support part, but I don’t feel comfortable screwing and unscrewing that part every time I’d change from ActionAir to Shadow. And I really like the picatinny solution for Shadow so I had to figure out another solution.
After 1 hour of brainstorming and many nearly-cut-myself-with-knife -situations later… meet the DIY Action Air support for SLB!
Pardon the grinding marks, but the tools I used to make this out of PE plastic were: knife, sandpaper, file and tears (I have all of my tools elsewhere, so I had to live with what I had in hands) When I have opportunity I will give this part a quick heatgun treatment to melt all plastic lint and scratches away.
I can attach and detach this part in seconds and because it is sitting tightly between aluminium support and the original picatinny holder it won’t move anywhere.
And final picture with my trusty Action Air CZ-75
I’ve now tested the Baikal MP-153 and guess what? It fails to cycle 100%.
If you don’t know the whole story you might want to start reading here
This time it will throw out the empty shell out and will push new cartridge in the chamber, but about 20% of the times I shoot the gun empty it fails to leave the bolt and slide locked in the back. With high speed camera I was able to confirm that slide does not move enough for the locking to engage.
I did not bother to call the dealer nor the importer about this. I figured that now that the gun is out of warranty (according to importer, because I’ve added washer on top of the slide release button) then I might fix the gun by my self.